Autoblock

Autoblock
Preparing the rope…

Start with a closed cord loop

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Place a loop of thinner cord beside the host rope. Keep its joining knot outside the wrap band.

Loops & Ropework · 7 steps

Wrap a closed cord loop around a host rope and bring both end bights together.

Also known as French Prusik.

An autoblock is a friction hitch made from a closed loop of smaller cord. The doubled cord winds around the host rope, then both end bights connect below the wraps. Unlike a Klemheist, the upper bight does not pass through the lower one.

The model shows four doubled wraps and leaves the connector out so both bights are visible. A practical arrangement clips both to the same suitable locking connector. The cord-loop joining knot belongs outside the gripping band, where it cannot disrupt the turns.

When to use it

  • Learn the wrap arrangement of an autoblock friction hitch.
  • Compare a two-bight attachment with a Klemheist.

Keep in mind

Grip depends on cord, host rope, wrap count and system geometry. Rappel-backup placement and operation require qualified instruction; this close-up omits the rest of that system.

Check your knot

  • All wraps run in the same direction.
  • Neither bight is threaded through the other.
  • Both bights are included in the intended attachment.
How to tie Autoblock
  1. Start with a closed cord loop

    Place a loop of thinner cord beside the host rope. Keep its joining knot outside the wrap band.

  2. Make the first doubled wrap

    Carry the closed upper bight around the host rope.

  3. Add a second wrap

    Continue in the same direction, keeping the strands aligned.

  4. Add a third wrap

    Lay the next turn alongside the earlier turns.

  5. Complete four wraps

    Keep the lower bight free beneath the turn band.

  6. Bring the upper bight down

    Bring the upper end around the outside of the coils to meet the lower bight. Do not pass it through the lower loop.

  7. Gather the wraps

    Arrange the four doubled wraps together. Keep both end bights below the band for the shared locking connector.

Explore the 3D steps
References & further reading